Ravenna -- "Capital of Mosaics"

Ravenna, Italy – Thursday, September 20

After a day on the Balkan side of the Adriatic Sea, we returned to the Italian peninsula. The seas were a bit choppy, delaying our entry into the relatively shallow port of Ravenna. The Captain explained that the seas were over 2.5 meters high (about 8 feet), more than was safe for our passage into port. A few tours were delayed, but no content was cut from any of them.

We went on a mostly walking tour called “Ravenna and Mosaics.” Our bus took us into town, where went to the Basilica of San Vitale; its initial construction began in 527 and was completed in 548. You could spend a week inside marveling at all the mosaics, and it took just one stop to realize why Ravenna is called, “The Capital of Mosaics.” Because of the high water table, you also see some of the original mosaic floor that is under water.

Adjacent to the Basilica is a small chapel, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. Photography was not allowed inside, but this small building is a total immersion in mosaics. Our group of 44 practically filled the entire floor space. What used to be small window openings are now covered with rich alabaster. You really should look online for pictures of the mosaics that covered the ceilings and the walls.

After a short walk, we reached the tomb of Dante Alighieri, father of the Italian language of the author of The Divine Comedy. There is also a tomb for him at the Santa Croce church in Florence, his birthplace, but he died in Ravenna. The locals in Ravenna insist he is buried there, but, of course, the Florentines say he is buried in his town of birth – I honestly don’t know, and it isn’t something I’m going to fret over. The mausoleum is quite small, but is one of the most visited sites in Ravenna.

Our organized tour ended at ABC (another big church, as we’ve come to call some of these visits) – Basilica di Saint Apollinare Nuovo. The entire length of the upper walls is covered with mosaics, and you see where some of the original ones were replaced as different rulers came into power. There is the occasional hand on a column from an old mosaic, yet the new one doesn’t have a body for the hand. Or there’s a different gold color showing a shadow of what used to be there. The history is right there in front of you.

The tour was over, and we walked to Piazza del Popolo, found a little café (there are plenty), and stopped for a bit of lunch. We shared a plate of olives and thinly sliced ham, and plate of cheese with olives. Both plates had some nice olive oil drizzled on the items. Since Sangiovese is the popular local wine, we had that to help us enjoy our delicious lunch.

All in all, it was a delightful day in Ravenna, and it was a shame to have to leave. The good news is that the book we bought will remind us of all the we saw, and more!

Stuart